السبت، 26 مارس 2016

The Aston Martin DB4 GT Zagato Sanction Sports Car

Aston Martin DB4 GT Zagato Sanction - A close look at this sports car including performance, technical data, features, comparing rivals, history, used prices
from Classic to Modern
Aston Martin DB4 Zagato on the Track
Four of the chassis used on the original Zagato sports car (also referred to as Sanction 1) were duly modified to produce lightweight versions that would be ideal for racing.
These racers incorporated the following features to improve aerodynamics: A lower roofline - Enlarged rear wings, with a restyled tail section, and an extended front section.
One of these restyled Zagatos made it debut at the Goodwood race track in early 1961 when, driven by Stirling Moss, it finished in third position, with its arch rival, the Ferrari 250 GT, taking the chequered flag.
However, a couple of months later, two of the quartet, supported by Aston Martin and assigned to Essex Racing, were entered in the Le Mans 24 Hour race, but both were forced to retire.
Not to be outdone, in July 1961, one of these cars claimed the Zagatos first win in one of the races as part of the British Grand Prix.
A further attempt at Le Mans in 1962 ended in early retirement through engine failure.
Aston Martin DB4 Zagato Sanction 2
Production of the DB4 Zagato ended in 1963 with 19 of the sports cars being built.
However, this was not the end of the story. In 1988, having approached Aston Martin, it was decided to modify four of the original DB4 chassis so that they could be transformed into a lighter weight construction, identical to that used in the DB4 GT.
These were then shipped to Milan to receive bodies comparable to those used in the original Zagatos of the early 1960's, with the distinctive small oval grille, and a smoother, restyled rear section.
The first of these modified rolling chassis was shipped in January 1989, with the fourth three months later.
These four officially approved replicas were designated as Sanction 2 cars.
Although there was little difference, externally, from the originals, modifications were made to improve the handling characteristics, whilst the engine capacity was increased from 3.7 to 4.2 litres, and the size of the road wheels was reduced from 16 to 15 inches.
All four replicas were completed in July 1991, but were not permitted to display the original Zagato badges.
When placed at auction, these replicas were sold for as much as $1.25 million.
Aston Martin DB4 Zagato Sanction 3
Following the sale of the four Sanction 2 Zagatos, it was found that there were still two additional Zagato body shells that had not been used, for whatever reason.
Therefore, in 1992, Aston Martin was approached with a view to creating further Sanction variants.
Following agreement, another two DB4 chassis were discovered, and were duly modified to produce, in conjunction with the newly found Zagato body shells, a final two DB4 Zagato replicas, which were completed in 2000, sporting the original Zagato badges.
These were designated as Sanction 3 sports cars.
Other Replica DB4 Zagatos
By 2000, a total of 19 original and 6 Sanction DB4 Zagatos had been built, and were highly prized, with six figure valuations.
Accordingly, since then, other non-original, and non Sanction replicas have been built, based on the chassis from DB4's and DB4 GT's.
However, such replicas did not have the Zagato sports car cache but were, nonetheless, still desirable, and with a ready market.
This concludes my Aston Martin DB4 GT Zagato Sanction Sports Car Review
To view my ORIGINAL more detailed article, containing Photographs, Videos, Technical Data, and Charts not shown above, then please click the following link:
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I Highly Recommend you click this link since by doing so you will get the full benefit of the Original Article rather than just the overview above since images, charts and competitive analysis have had to be removed.
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Aston Martin DB9 Convertible - A Driving Delight

The Aston Martin DB9 is a highly desirable and visually appealing drop-top grand tourer. Both the Coupe and Vol ante models are known for high performance and luxury that its maker is typically known for. From the previous model, both the variants underwent a style update for a freshened look and slightly revised interior and more powerful motor.
Though it had got some updates but the exterior facet including the classic proportions and graceful stance remained somewhat unchanged. However, several new details have been added to the latest convertible model, which were missing in the predecessor. For instance, the headlights are more angular and swept-back than before whereas the front fascia has received a streamlined single-intake design.
Talking to the styling, the DB9 Convertible is one of the most beautiful cars that a person can ever own. Despite a few amendments and upgrade, the model still carries off the classic Aston look with much ease. Though it has a classic exterior, it has a few modifications and improvements in the materials and texture to offer a more beautiful cabin that is exquisitely crafted and well finished.
The Vol ante model isn't as stiff as the Coupe, but both the variants are a driver's delight. It offers massive thrills with the added sensation of speed and wind as well as noise that a convertible allows. Also, the sound of 510bhp V12 bouncing off walls makes the driving more sensational. Whether Vol-ante or Coupe, some features are same - 0-62mph time of 4.6-seconds and the three-mode suspension. It turns in sharply and offers masses of grip to grant more control while driving. The carbon ceramic brakes are fitted as standard are excellent and has awesome stopping power. Even if there is a tiny bit of body shake, the vehicle is remarkably stable and offers a smooth ride.
The first models which sold in 2004 have been refined and honed with reliability improving all the while. The engine - 6.0-litre V12 - is well proven and used throughout the Aston range leaving no scope for bugs. Driver would not feel any problem with engine, transmission or drive line thus reliability is ensured. In terms of quality, the interior is well made to withstand the test of time. Both Coupe and Vol ante of DB9 Convertible have standard safety kit like airbags, traction and stability control as well as new front end to meet pedestrian safety legislation. In all of this, it maintains the traditional Aston front grille.
Get more information about DB9 Convertible visit HWM Aston Martin
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How Do We Stop Our Classic Car Hobby Dying Off?

Long term this classic car industry of ours is in danger of dying out for a number of reasons. Firstly the youth of today don't generally think of cars from the 1950s, 60s and 70s as classics. They just think of them as old cars, much as I thought of pre-war cars as I was growing up. My own personal definition of a 'classic car' is the ones that were around when you were growing up and aspired to drive and own. Growing up in the 1960s and starting to drive in the 1970s that puts 60s and 70s cars squarely in my sights. Anyone growing up in the 1980s and 1990s will have a different mind-set.
Many classic car clubs are suffering from falling numbers as their membership is literally dying off and youngsters aren't joining to fill the gaps. A few clubs are working to try and reverse the pattern. The TR Register (of which I am a member) have a 'Yoof Group' and at the NEC Classic Motor Show in November 2014 I was pleased to see the 'Young Members Register of the Morris Minor Owners Club'.
Fortunately Morris Minors, some Triumphs: Spitfires and TR7, and classic Minis are still relatively cheap in classic car terms and make good starter classics. Once hooked, hopefully the owners will graduate to more expensive Triumphs and other more expensive marques. That is assuming they can get insurance as insurers are very biased again drivers from 17 to 25 (particularly male ones) as they are responsible for a disproportionate number of road accidents. According to an AA report in England 37% of drivers have had a crash by the age of 23!
I can't see the Jaguar Drivers' Club or Aston Martin Owners Club ever having a youth section for a number of reasons: mainly old age and prejudice of existing members but also the escalating costs of Jaguars and Astons and the insurance issue.
We do our bit to spread the word about classic cars and about 10% of our hire customers are doing a 'Try Before You Buy' - making sure the car of their choice lives up to their dreams - before going out to buy one. At the 2014 Classic Motor Show at the NEC we had 4 people come up to us on our stand and talk about the cars they had bought after hiring out one of our cars as a test. However even we can't fix the insurance issue as our own insurers have set a lower age limit of 25 for all our customers.
Assuming the clubs can can crack the 'Yoof' problem and encourage more people into our hobby this still leaves us with another problem which if we don't crack soon, will leave us with a huge problem in years to come.
If you want someone to programme your home video or smart TV, you'll probably ask your kids to do it. If you want your website updated, or lessons on Facebook, Twitter or Instagram, you head to the spotty youth or the 20-something guru. If you want your classic car fixing, you look for a silver haired mechanic who can tell what is wrong with your engine by listening to it and can balance twin or triple carbs by ear. Sadly by the nature of life itself these silver haired mechanics are literally dying off with very little sign of school leavers coming into the industry to learn their skills and replace them.
Youngsters don't see manufacturing or servicing cars as cool jobs and most of them don't have the patience to watch an entire TV programme without looking at Facebook on their iPhones, let alone complete a 2 or 3 year apprenticeship in an industry they perceive as dirty and underpaid.
However we do now have some heavyweights looking at fixing this problem (in the UK at least). The Federation of British Historic Vehicle Clubs (FBHVC), which represents most UK clubs, has put together an approved apprenticeship training programme in Historic Vehicle Restoration. The FBHVC believe there is a need to train 1,000 people over the next five years. There are two fairly local (30 miles way) organisations involved in this which should help - Bicester College and Bicester Heritage. I think it is Bicester Heritage that have the vision and drive to make some of this happen.
Anyone owning classic cars in the UK knows that the classic car movement owes a lot to Hitler, or rather to the RAF in their fight to defeat Hitler. Silverstone was a WWII airfield and its runways and perimeter road provided the ideal infra-structure to start racing after the war. The same goes for many other circuits around the country like Castle Coombe and Goodwood. Bicester used to have an RAF base, whose origins date back to 1916 and the fledgling Royal Flying Corps which morphed into the RAF in 1918. This grew extensively in the 1930s and was used as a bomber base in WWII. The base is now surplus to the RAF's requirements and came onto the market for re-development. While part of the site is being used for housing, many of the 1930s buildings are 'listed' and not allowed to be demolished.
With incredible foresight a group of people have bought the 348 acre site, complete with runways and buildings. Their plan is to develop it as a centre for the maintenance and restoration of classic aeroplanes, motorbikes and classic cars. This is a non-trivial task as first they had to restore many of the buildings to a state where they could be used, but keeping the 1930s 'listed' fabric and style of the buildings intact. The authenticity of the buildings can be attested to by their use in the film 'The Imitation Game' starring Benedict Cumberbatch as Alan Turing.
Bicester Heritage already houses the following:
  • Bicester Gliding Centre
  • A shot blasting company - BMP Blasters - who can strip anything from the hangar doors to a Bugatti chassis.
  • A classic car storage company - Historit - occupying 50,000 square feet of a bomber hangar.
  • Kingsbury Racing Shop which specialises in racing and restoring four and a half litre Bentleys.
  • A young vehicle upholsterer who runs a 1910 Overland veteran car and is so well known that he doesn't need to advertise and has a waiting list of customers.
  • Robert Glover - selling pre-war cars and cars from the 1940s to 1960s.
As more buildings are re-furbished throughout 2015/16 more companies will join these at Bicester Heritage with 12 more tenants due before the end of the first quarter.
I think a combination of Bicester Heritage providing a base for a cluster of companies in our industry, together with Bicester College and the apprenticeship programme from the FBHVC, are a beacon for the classic car industry. While I can't see 1,000 apprentices coming over the horizon, I can see a reasonable number of people learning new skills, working in a unique environment, earning a good living for the future from classic car owners with enough disposable income to make it all worthwhile.
On a less serious note, it is nice to know that even in the dark days of the 1930s, with Britain preparing for war, the RAF had a sense of humour. Being a military installation all the buildings have numbers with the offices for Bicester Heritage in the Guard House - building 89.
The planners decided that the toilet block should be building 100!
Tony Merrygold of The Open Road is an expert in classic car hire having been in business in the UK since 1997 running The Open Road. Tony runs courses telling people how to start up a car hire company, having trained over 200 people over the past ten years.
Combining his 20 year background in sales and marketing with his knowledge of the classic car hire industry, in early 2008 Tony launched a new web portal Classic Car Hire World - listing classic and sports car hire companies around the world. Within three months of its launch this site achieved a Google PageRank of 4/10 and was showing on the first page of Google.com when users searched for 'classic car hire'.
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/expert/Tony_Merrygold/117544

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Adding A Rear Fog Light to The Open Road's 1969 MGB Roadster

At the same time as changing the standard bulbs on our 1969 MGB Roadster to LEDS I thought it would be sensible to add a rear fog light to the MGB as these weren't fitted back in 1969. Halfords have always sold a fog lamp that hangs from the rear bumper but I don't like the look of this and wanted a less obtrusive one. Like all MGBs ours has a pair of rectangular reversing lights built into the rear panel. These are lit by 21W festoon bulbs (the same rating as fog lamps and brake lights) so my initial take was to trim a piece of red lens so that it fitted inside the clear reverse light lens and wire in a separate switch.
While technically this worked, the red light produced was only about the same brightness as a side light and not strong enough to work as a fog light. I then fitted a rectangular fog lamp from Halfords, which used a standard 21W bayonet bulb. This sat proud of the bodywork and ended up at too much of an angle and didn't look right with its big black plastic surround. Searching the Internet I came across a company selling fog lights for trailers and they had an LED fog light about 80mm square with fixings 50mm apart, that was fairly flat.
One was duly ordered and it fits perfectly. It came fitted with two bolts which are slightly larger than the ones for the reversing lights. The light unit appeared to be sealed and I couldn't get in to it to use the narrower bolts from the MGB's reversing light so I just drilled out the captive nuts a little and used the washers and nuts supplied with the light. I made up a rubber gasket to stop rain leaking behind the light and getting into the boot. It is slightly larger than the reversing light but not much and looks almost like it was meant to be there. Also having LEDS rather than a normal bulb, it is very bright and should take very little current.
UK MOT testing rules for fog lamps say they must be wired in so they only come on when the headlamps are in use and they must have a 'tell-tale' light on the dashboard. Not wishing to drill two holes in the dash I found a chrome toggle switch at Maplin's with a red LED built into the end. This wired in easily enough taking a feed off the headlamp circuit, running one lead to the fog lamp and another lead to earth. The chrome switch looks fairly period and the red LED is suitably obvious when switched on.
Overall an easy and worthwhile modification to an MGB Roadster that is used in all weathers.
Tony Merrygold of The Open Road is an expert in classic car hire having been in business in the UK since 1997 running The Open Road. Tony runs courses telling people how to start up a car hire company, having trained over 200 people over the past ten years.
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Upgrading Fuse Box on AustinHealey 3000 and Installing LED Fuses

Last week, one of the fuses on our 1963 Austin Healey 3000 blew and when I tried to swap it for one of the spares stored in the car, the spare was duff. These are old fashioned glass fuses and while the original one had burnt the spare looked OK - it was just faulty.
I traced the original problem to the connection to the cigar lighter, which had worked loose and was shorting out, as it was one of the extra auxiliary fuses that had gone. While touring in France in our 1970 Jaguar E-Type in September 2015 we had similar problems with two failing fuses although they didn't look as if they had blown either.
While I know the fuses in all of our hire cars quite well, it isn't so easy for our customers to find a blown one, so I decided to upgrade them to new blade fuses with built in LEDs which will glow when broken. The Austin Healey 3000 came as standard with just two fuses - a 50 amp one for electrics which aren't connected through the ignition and the other 35 amp one for everything that only comes on when the ignition is live. I have added a couple of ancillaries to the Healey: cigarette lighter socket for satnav and phone charging; front spot lights and electric windscreen washers and I ran these from a separate fuse box
Changing to LED bladed fuses meant changing the fuse boxes from the original type to ones that take blade fuses.
I changed the ancillary fuse box for one that takes 4 blade fuses. I replaced the original twin fuse block with a 6 way box splitting the top 50 amp connections in 2, then connected the four green wires that had been connected to the 35 amp fuse, with one new fuse each.
Now instead of just having 2 fuses, which if either of them failed would have taken out half of the electrics, our Austin Healey has 10 separate fuses fitted, nine of which are in use and one spare. Now if a fuse fails it should only take out one item at a time and a glance under the bonnet will identify it as the red LED embedded in the fuse will be glowing. Much less likely to blow in the first place and easier for our hire customers to find and fix if one does go.
All the fuse boxes and the LED fuses were supplied by Vehicle Wiring Products Ltd.
Tony Merrygold of The Open Road is an expert in classic car hire having been in business in the UK since 1997 running The Open Road.
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In Praise of an AntiGravity Battery Jump Starter

It is rare that I come across a product that I feel warrants un-solicited praise, but the AntiGravity Battery definitely falls into that category.
A month or so ago a customer arrived to hire out one of our classic cars and he was carrying with him a smallish zip up black leatherette case. Bigger than an iPhone case but definitely not a man-bag. He had brought it with him in case the car didn't have a cigarette lighter socket to keep his phone topped up.
He said this was an AntiGravity battery and he opened the case. In it was a Lithium Ion battery about 50% bigger than my iPhone 5 and about 4 times as thick, with a whole set of connectors to fit anything from a phone to a laptop, plus a mains plug to charge it. But the most interesting thing for me was a small pair of jump leads as this battery will allegedly start a car.
I thought about this for a couple of weeks and did some research on the InterWeb. I don't normally worry about keeping my phone charged as I take a charging lead and cigar lighter plug with me, but was very interested in the jump start capability. I came across a YouTube video of someone testing one. First it was used to start a motorbike, several times, then on to start a car, or light truck, several times.
Suitably convinced I ordered one which duly arrived and I charged it up. I am not a fan of running down car batteries just for the hell of it, so for a while didn't test it on a car. It was certainly able to charge my phone, has a very bright built-in LED torch which can be set to flash SOS in morse-code if I ever get stuck up a mountain.
Then a couple of weekends ago I had to move a few of our hire cars around, one of which was our Austin Healey 3000 which hadn't been started for about 3 weeks. The Healey turned over slowly a couple of times but didn't fire and the battery clearly wasn't going to do its job. I keep a spare (old) battery in the garage which is always on trickle charge and would normally use this, with a set of normal jump leads, to start a car in such circumstances. This seemed to be the ideal opportunity to test the AntiGravity battery. I connected the leads to the Healey's battery, plugged the connector into the socket on the AntiG battery and turned it on. An LED lit to confirm that polarity was correct.
I then tried to start the car. WOW! This tiny battery spun the Healey over quicker than its normal lead acid battery does, and it started straight away.
An Austin Healey has an old fashioned, heavy cast iron engine, with a long stroke so it normally takes a bit of battery power to get it going. The AntiG battery clearly was more than man enough for the job. When we took our Jaguar E-type off to France on the Euroclassic, organised by the European Classic Touring Club, I packed this along with my other tools, although fortunately we didn't need to use it.
The whole AntiGravity case and contents is smaller than the standard pack of jump leads I take with me, never mind the space and weight of a spare lead-acid car battery. So now rather than carry a pack of jump leads in our classic cars this will go with me safe in the knowledge that it can start a car, power a phone or laptop, or even attract a rescue helicopter.
No wonder companies like Tesla are using Li-Ion batteries instead of lead acid!
Tony Merrygold of The Open Road is an expert in classic car hire having been in business in the UK since 1997 running The Open Road. Tony runs courses telling people how to start up a car hire company, having trained over 200 people over the past ten years.
Combining his 20 year background in sales and marketing with his knowledge of the classic car hire industry, in early 2008 Tony launched a new web portal Classic Car Hire World - listing classic and sports car hire companies around the world. Within three months of its launch this site acheived a Google PageRank of 4/10 and was showing on the first page of Google.com when users searched for 'classic car hire'.
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/expert/Tony_Merrygold/117544
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الأحد، 20 مارس 2016

Hints and Tips on Storing Your Classic Car Over the Winter

We don't let our classic cars go out on hire in the depths of winter, particularly once the first frosts arrive and the councils start spreading salt on the roads. Our cars were never rustproofed when new and even though we tend to Waxoyl them ourselves this can never be done completely and always leaves untreated bodywork which is subject to the dreaded tin worm.
We take them all off the road over the winter and work through our list of improvements and put them all through our garage for their main annual service. Putting them away for the winter isn't just a matter of driving them into the garage and we do, and recommend that classic car owners do, as much of the following as is practicable.
  • Clean and polish the whole car properly, including the underside of the bonnet and boot lids and as much of the engine bay as is reachable. Empty the boot and clean and polish the inside of the boot and the boot floor.

  • While you have the spare wheel out make sure it is clean and check the tyre pressure. As tyres can lose a bit of pressure over time when stored, pump it up to a few PSI more than is needed.

  • Hose down the underside of the car and dry it off as best as you can - if necessary taking it for a short drive to dry it off - as long as there is no salt on the roads of course.

  • Check the carpet to see if they are at all damp - most classics tend to leak to some extent. If possible lift the carpets and any soundproofing or underlay and check the floor isn't wet. If it is, remove the carpets and dry and polish the floor. Hang the carpets and underlay up in the garage to dry, or store them in the airing cupboard if you are allowed to.

  • If you have over mats in the footwells it is a good idea to remove these to allow the main carpet to breathe. Store these somewhere where they will keep dry, or dry out if necessary.

  • If there was any damp inside the car at all this can creep up into the carpet that covers the gearbox and transmission tunnel or the carpet under the seats. Install a mini dehumidifier which will dry the car interior out slowly over a couple of weeks. These are not expensive - about £30 each and I have used them for over 15 years. They only consume about 40w so don't cost much money to leave running continuously. They extract water and fill up a small tank which needs emptying when the light changes from green to red. Keep running the dehumidifier until no more water appears in the tank.

  • Store the car with the windows wound up otherwise the dehumidifier will be extracting moisture permanently as the air circulates round the car.

  • More importantly keeping the windows closed will stop your local rodents from deciding to make their winter home inside the car and chewing up the carpet and seats.

  • If you have the luxury of keeping your car stored in a Carcoon or an AirChamber then as long as the fans on this are kept running they will dry out the car both inside and out so an in car de-humidifier is not needed. We keep one of our cars in an AirChamber which works extremely well.

  • Check all under bonnet fluid levels: coolant - top up with antifreeze rather than water; oil; brake and clutch fluids and the battery electrolyte level.

  • Connect a trickle charger to the battery to keep it topped up. I prefer the ones that show a red LED while charging and a green LED when fully charged so the charge state can be seen at a glance. There are some premium priced chargers on the market for over £70 but I have normally bought suitable ones in the £20 to £30 price range which have worked perfectly. Some of these come with extra leads, with an inline plug, which can be fitted to the car so the charger can just be plugged in. I have fitted one of these to our MGB to save me having to lift the panel over the batteries to get to them. Alternatively connect the cigarette lighter direct to a live feed, not switched through the ignition, connect a cigarette plug to the charger and then it can just be plugged into the cigarette lighter.

  • Pump up tyres to a couple of PSI above the normal pressure to allow for any loss over the winter.

  • Do not use the handbrake in case it sticks on.

  • If your car is convertible, keep the soft-top raised and taut to keep it dry and free from mould.

  • If you have chrome wire wheels, clean them and give them a liberal coating of WD40. This can be cleaned off in the spring.
It is a good idea to start the car at least once a month during the winter and run it fully up to operating temperature. If possible, and salt hasn't been used on the roads for a while, then take it for a short run. If this is not practical then at least drive it back and forth out of the garage to make sure the clutch works, none of the brakes have stuck on and at least get some of the oil and grease doing their jobs on moving parts. Also try all switches to make sure they work. Switch contacts can oxidise internally if not used and just switching them on and off will help prevent this.
And finally look forward to Spring, sunshine and no salt!
Tony Merrygold of The Open Road is an expert in classic car hire having been in business in the UK since 1997 running The Open Road.
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Which Do You Prefer - British Classics or American Muscle?

I never really understood why Americans developed such a love for our British Sportcars. For Brits of my generation it is obvious as we grew up with them. In the late 50s and early 60s there were very few foreign cars on UK roads, a few Renaults and Citroens and the inevitable VW Beetles. Japanese cars didn't start getting imported until 1965 and it was only in the 1970s and 1980s when a combination of strong unions, bad management and bad quality saw them really have an impact on the UK manufacturers. For a while there were probably as many American cars in the UK as German, as we had a lot of US bases all over the country and many GIs imported US cars.
I have known for years that about 75% of production of Austin Healey, Jaguar, MG and Triumph went to the US but it is only now that I own two American classics that I think I understand why British cars are loved so much.
To illustrate this I think it is worthwhile doing a straight comparison with a couple of the classics that I have owned and driven. My favourite car by a long way is my 1970 Jaguar SII E-Type. I am now on my 3rd E-Type having progressed up the value chain from a SII 2+2, the least desirable version, to a SII coupe and now to a SII Roadster. 1964 saw the S1 E-Types evolving from the original design with the 4.2 litre engine replacing the 3.8, a Jaguar gearbox replacing the appalling Moss one, brakes being upgraded and a decent servo installed and good supportive seats replacing the original bucket ones. 1964 saw the launch of the Ford Mustang in the US and my 1st American Muscle Car is a 1965 Mustang Fastback GT, so I believe it is fair to compare these two.
I will ignore the fact that the Ford Mustang is a 2+2 v the 2 seater E-Type and concentrate on the technology and driving. Both cars have similar power outputs - Mustang 250 bhp, E-Type 265 bhp, both have 4 speed manual gearboxes and the weights are pretty close. There the similarities end. The Mustang has a solid rear axle on good old fashioned cart springs and single Macpherson strut suspension for each front wheel. The E-Type has double wishbone front suspension and fully independent rear suspension. Ford offered various braking options: drums all round; drums plus a servo or drums on the rear and disks on the front - which ours has. For some inexplicable reason Ford didn't think the driver would need disks and a servo. E-Types have disk brakes on all four wheels and a servo as standard - right from their launch in 1961.
It is this combination of fully independent suspension and decent brakes that make the E-Type completely outclass the Mustang, which is pretty fast in a straight line with 0-60 being only 1 second slower than the E-Type. Sadly the myth that American muscle cars were not designed to go round corners seems fairly accurate. The basic suspension is responsible for a soft ride and lots of body roll, speed really needs to be scrubbed off to get round even the gentlest of bends. The E-Type will easily leave the Mustang standing on any winding country road.
Over the years technology improved a bit so it is worth comparing our 1974 Triumph TR6 with my 2nd American muscle car - a 1978 C3 Corvette Special Edition Indy Pace Car. The TR6 develops 125 bhp from its Lucas injected 6 cylinder 2.5 litre engine while the Vette develops 220 bhp from its V8 which is more than twice the size at 5.7 litres (350 ci). This engine has to drag along about 50% more weight than the TR6 - 3,624 lbs v 2,410 lbs but does manage to carry it to 60 mph about 1½ seconds quicker. Top speed of the Vette is only 5 mph faster than the TR6. Not a huge difference for all that extra horse power and fuel consumption.
The TR6 has a 4 speed manual gearbox with overdrive giving it 6 gears while the Vette has a 3 speed auto box which doesn't rev very high, even with the accelerator flat on the floor.
Both the Vette and TR6 have independent rear suspension so the road holding on both is better than the 1965 Mustang but not as good as the E-Type. The Vette has disk brakes on all four wheels and a servo v the TR6 front disks and servo. To help handle the weight of the cast engine V8 engine block our Vette has power steering which while it makes life really easy loses all feedback to the driver.
We take our cars on track when possible on a classic car tour and our Etype would leave the Mustang standing. I haven't yet taken the Corvette on track and while it will be quick off the line I am sure that the TR6 will see it off in the corners as it is much lighter and more nimble.
The two American muscle cars do have a few things going for them: that unique V8 burble, straight line speed and their ability to attract attention. There is also no doubt that the success of the Mustang (1 Million cars sold in 18 months) is unlikely ever to be matched again and Ford with their huge options list did more to push the idea of the 'personal car' than anyone else.
But our TR6 and Etype are much better driver's cars, better road holding, better braking, more nimble and much more fun.
This can all be summarised by the split in the age range of who appreciates which car. The American cars tend to attract the attention of 30 somethings who have grown up with American films like Grease and High School Musical. The E-Type and TR6 tend to attract the attention of 40 and 50 somethings who grew up with them in the UK.
It would interesting to see a remake of Grease with 'Greased Lightning' being based on an E-Type!
Tony Merrygold of The Open Road is an expert in classic car hire having been in business in the UK since 1997 running The Open Road. Tony runs courses telling people how to start up a car hire company, having trained over 200 people over the past ten years.
Combining his 20 year background in sales and marketing with his knowledge of the classic car hire industry, in early 2008 Tony launched a new web portal Classic Car Hire World - listing classic and sports car hire companies around the world. Within three months of its launch this site achieved a Google PageRank of 4/10 and was showing on the first page of Google.com when users searched for 'classic car hire'.
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/expert/Tony_Merrygold/117544

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Fitting an Oil Catch Tank to an Austin Healey 3000

Big Austin Healeys have always been notorious for heavy oil consumption - even the manual says they may consume 1 pint of oil per 250 miles. While this was probably normal in the 1940s and 1950s it is not the case on modern cars. Some of this oil goes past the valves and mixes with the exhaust gases that are 'blown-by' the piston rings into the crankcase. Our Healey is fitted as standard with a Positive Crankcase Ventilation (PCV) system which links the crankcase to the rocker cover and then via a T-piece across to the rear of one of the carburettor air filter canisters. This is designed to reduce the gas pressure built up in the crankcase and rocker cover, rather than reduce the oil consumption.
The PCV system means that the oil fumes are sucked into the carburettors by the inlet manifold vacuum and burnt along with the fuel. When I accelerated hard in our Austin Healey 3000 I could see exhaust fumes in the rear view mirror, so it seemed the system was burning some oil as well as the crankcase fumes.
A coupe of years ago I decided to fit an oil catch tank in line with the PCV breather system to see if it would make any difference. I found a suitable one in polished aluminium with an inlet and outlet pipe and a small clear plastic tube showing oil level. The fumes and oil mist are drawn in, the oil and any un-burnt fuel condense out and the remaining gases are then sucked out into the back of the air cleaner and burnt as before. I fitted this using normal rubber tubing to/from the catch tank.
It did its job well as over the course of a year, covering about 6,000 miles, it accumulated about 1/2 pint of oil. This is released through a drain plug in the base of the tank which I then poured back into the engine for re-use. This meant that I had prevented the engine burning about 1/2 pint of oil a year, reducing both the emissions and the likelihood of the plugs becoming fouled by burnt oil.
This year I decided it was time to tidy up the engine compartment a bit and bought chrome finish air cleaners to replace the grey painted ones and thought it time to replace the rubber tubing. The engine has a chrome heater pipe running the full length so I bought some chrome plated, standard plumbing type, copper piping and using a plumbers pipe bending machine made up a pair of chrome pipes.
These now run along the engine, above the heater pipe, connected using short lengths of rubber tubing and jubilee clips and provide for a much tidier engine bay. The oil catch tank continues to operate as when first installed.
The fact that I have prevented at least 1/2 pint of oil a year being burnt by the engine makes fitting a catch tank well worthwhile, and using chrome plated copper piping makes for a much tidier engine bay than just using rubber tubing.
Tony Merrygold of The Open Road is an expert in classic car hire having been in business in the UK since 1997 running The Open Road. Tony runs courses telling people how to start up a car hire company, having trained over 200 people over the past ten years.
Combining his 20 year background in sales and marketing with his knowledge of the classic car hire industry, in early 2008 Tony launched a new web portal Classic Car Hire World - listing classic and sports car hire companies around the world. Within three months of its launch this site acheived a Google PageRank of 4/10 and was showing on the first page of Google.com when users searched for 'classic car hire'.
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/expert/Tony_Merrygold/117544

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The Importance of Painting Brake Calipers and Brake Drums on Classic Cars

On a guided tour of a Bentley dealer, the service manager took great pride in emphasising their attention to detail by showing me one of the mechanics painting the brake calipers on a modern Bentley that was in for a service. I've been doing this for years on our fleet of classic cars for a number of reasons.
Anyone who has bought a classic car that hasn't had much use knows that rust on the brake calipers can cause problems. It is unsightly when viewed through nice gleaming chrome wire wheels or period alloy wheels. But most importantly rust can actually cause problems with the braking system when servicing.
The calipers are normally made out of cast iron and while some cars have nickel plated or, better still, copper brake pipes, virtually all of them have steel fittings on the brake pipes and steel brake bleed nipples which can rust. If the rust isn't kept under control then the bleed nipples can rust into the calipers making it virtually impossible to bleed the brakes. I have seen too many cars where the flats on the bleed nipples have been rounded off so that they can no longer be undone with a spanner. In severe cases I have known of bleed nipples that have snapped off, meaning the caliper has to be removed, brake pipes removed (if they will come undone, and then the bleed nipple very carefully drilled out and replaced.
If the bleed nipple has reached this stage then it is quite possible that the brake pistons have started to rust in the calipers as well - but that is a separate issue.
When I do my main winter service on all my classic cars I remove any rust from the calipers with a wire brush, particularly around the brake pipe ends and the bleed nipples. I treat these items with a rust preventer, normally Kurust, and I then give the calipers a thin coat of Smoothrite paint, normally in silver. Some brake calipers were cadmium plated when new (which has now been banned) which has a yellow / gold colour. In this case I use the gold Smoothrite which dries to a similar colour to cadmium.
I emphasise here a 'thin' coat of paint. Just enough to give a good covering and brushed out thinly. DO NOT paint the brake pipe ends or the bleed nipples or the part of the caliper that the nipple screws into, otherwise this can seize up with paint which is as bad as it rusting in situ. If you remember, it is also worthwhile adding one drop of thin oil or a squirt of WD40 (or equivalent) to the base of the nipple to allow it to seep into the top couple of threads.
Some of our cars have drum brakes on the rear, so here I remove the drums, de-rust, Kurust and paint them, normally in silver Smoothrite. The brake pipes and bleed nipples don't fit into the drums but through the drum back plate, so while the wheel and drums are removed, I wire brush the pipe ending and nipples and Kurust these as well.
You now have a set of rust free, very tidy looking, calipers and drums with fittings that hopefully will undo when needed. Nice to know that Bentley in Cheltenham come up to my standards.
At this point it is also worth adding a reminder that brake fluid absorbs moisture from the air and therefore should be flushed out and changed every three years, hence the need to be able to undo the bleed nipples.
Tony Merrygold of The Open Road is an expert in classic car hire having been in business in the UK since 1997 running The Open Road. Tony runs courses telling people how to start up a car hire company, having trained over 200 people over the past ten years.
Combining his 20 year background in sales and marketing with his knowledge of the classic car hire industry, in early 2008 Tony launched a new web portal Classic Car Hire World - listing classic and sports car hire companies around the world. Within three months of its launch this site achieved a Google PageRank of 4/10 and was showing on the first page of Google.com when users searched for 'classic car hire'.
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/expert/Tony_Merrygold/117544

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